Celebrated in many cultures around the world, Mardi Gras originated as a spring fertility festival in ancient societies. Louisianans know it well, from the New Orleans brass band to small-town “runs” in the countryside.
A word many of us are familiar with, “Boeuf Gras,” is an ancient tradition that traveled with the French to the American colonies. The Boeuf Gras Society of Mobile began parading its sacred bovine before spectators in Alabama in 1711. And in 1872, dressed in a crown of flowers, the majestic white bovine began marching down St. Charles Avenue in New Orleans in the Rex Parade. Although made of papier-mâché since 1959, the Bœuf Gras was once a live bull straight from the ranch until 1901.
Over the millennia, the ox has symbolized power, virility and tenacity, and has been celebrated as a sacred symbol: from Europa and Zeus in Greek mythology to the Egyptian bull god Apis. What began as a celebration of the bull during the Druids’ Festival of the Sun became the Roman Carnival (carne + levare = bye-bye meat in Latin), and then in the 16th century became the Promenade du Bœuf Gras as part of the Paris Carnival, a festival run by the butchers’ guild.
After a few stops and starts over the years, the Parisian “promenade” resumed in 1998 thanks to the president and founder of Droit à la Culture, Alain Riou, until he passed the baton to Basile Pachcoff, who left us in 2023. Today, under the direction of Ilham Mouhid, Carnaval de Paris continues to honor the history of the famous bovine. On February 11 this year, the Sunday before Mardi Gras, celebrants can dress up and join in the festivities from Place Gambetta to Place de la République. This year, the promenade pays tribute to the life and considerable historical contribution of Basile Pachkoff.
So, this Mardi Gras, empty your pantries, pay homage to the fat ox and have some fun. Because on Ash Wednesday, the royal beast returns to the farm.
Anne-Julia Price, originally from Louisiana, is a correspondent based in Paris, France.